Cam Seal Replacement, rear, 1998 Volvo S70 GLT - Volvo 850 Cam Seal Replacement
These instructions will guide you through the process of replacing the rear cam seals on the Volvo S70 GLT, 1998, B5254 motor. I believe you can use these instructions to replace the cam seals on all of the turbo S70, V70, and 850 model Volvos. The job can be done in 2 hours.
I suggest you use OEM cam seals. My local dealer wanted $25 per seal (x4). I found them at another dealership for $11 per seal, plus $9 shipping, still saved about $50 with the shipping. Contact me if you need the dealership information to save money.
It is important to determine what caused the seals to leak. It is not normal for them to leak unless the PCV system is clogged and pressure is building in the head. Also, worn valves or pistons can cause pressure to build in the head. You may want to do a compression test to make sure the motor is in good shape.
My daughter lives about 150 miles from me and she called complaining
that her car was running rough. I figured it was missing and needed
tuned up so I swapped cars with her. When I got the car home, I noticed
that it was leaking oil and found that one source of the leak was the
cam seals, they were leaking just a little. We purchase the car about 19
months ago and quickly learned that the PCV system was plugged. So I
replace the PCV system about 3 months into our ownership. About 6 months
later (approx 11 months ago) I decided to switch oil and started using
full synthetic oil. I have heard that weak seals and minor oil leaks
will intensify when you switch to synthetic. Well, a week after I had
the car I hit the gas at a fresh green traffic light and blew two of the
cam seals totally out. If you look at the photo below, you can
see that the seal actually fell out with the retainer.
The car has about 150,000 miles on it and I found after market seals in the motor. I suspect that the seals went bad because they were replaced with the PCV system plugged and the fact that I switched to synthetic oil. I did do a compression test that resulted with great readings. So I moved forward with the seals replacement.
Tools Needed:
| Good, professional grade T-40 bit | Very small flat tip screw driver |
| Cam seals, Volvo P/N: 9443310 | 12 mm Socket |
| 10 mm Socket | Ratchet wrench, 3/8" |
| Torque wrench | General purpose grease |
| 7 mm Socket, 1/4" | Long ratchet extension, 1/4" |
| Ratchet wrench, 1/4" |
Instructions: Read each step in it's entirety before doing the procedure. It will help you avoid breaking parts, harming yourself, etc..
NOTE: I replaced the spark plug wires, rotor and rotor cap while I was at it. The car was due a tune-up. It would also be a good idea to get the radio code to unlock the radio when you reconnect the battery.
- Disconnect the battery, 2 x 10 mm bolts.
- Remove the battery, there is a clip at the bottom of the battery
on the edge closest to the radiator. Lift the clip and slide the
battery towards the motor then lift it up.
- Unplug the MAF.
- Remove the throttle body cover if you have one.
- Remove the air duct from the back of the fan shroud that
connects to the bottom of the air filter box. Push back on the
connection and pull it out.
- Remove the air duct that goes around the throttle body. Has 2 x
7 mm clamp screws.
- Remove the duct that goes to the turbo. Has 2 x 7 mm clamps and
1 x 10 mm bolt.
- Remove the spark plug cover. It has 6 x T-30 screws.
- Undo the MAF Hose.
- Remove the air box. Undo the rubber hose on the front of it,
unclip the wire connection on the back of it, and lift it from the
bracket and finder. You may have to take the top off the box, it has
6 clips. Watch the ignition coil wire when you lift it off.
- Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs so that the wires are loose.
- Take the ignition coil wire loose from the coil.
- Loosen the screws from the distributer cap and remove the
distributer cap with the wires attached. It has 3 x 7 mm screws.
- Remove the cap from the rotor, it pulls over the rotor.
- Remove the rotor. It has 3 x 1/8" hex screws. Be careful, mine
were hard to break loose and they almost striped.
- Remove the cam seal retainer. It has 1 x 10 mm bolt. When I
removed mine, the cam seal came out with it.
- Move the wires and tubes so you can remove the cam shaft sensor
at the aft rear cam seal.
- Remove the cam shaft sensor. It has 2 x T-40 bolts. Make sure
you have a good bit, if you don't, you can strip the bolt and have
an instant head ache.
NOTE: When you install the cam shaft sensor, torque the bolts to 18 ft. lbs. I could not find a specific torque value, just what I did. - Remove the cam shaft seal retainer. It has 1 x 10 mm bolt.
- Remove the seal with the small flat tip screw driver if it has
not already fallen out.
- Install the new seals. You may have to tap them in with a 3/8"
socket extension or something. Be careful not to push them in to
far. I used the old seals as a seal protector, had them faced back
to back while installing the new seals.
- Install the seal retainers, fore and aft. Note that they have
pegs in them that align into the cam shaft end slots. Torque the
retainers to 15 ft. lbs.
- From here you can reverse the procedures from step 19.
- When you have everything back together, cross your fingers and start the motor. Check back for leaks in 100 miles.
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End of instructions.