Technology Instructions

[ Home ] [ Automotive Tips and Repair Instructions ] [ Computer Tips & Instructions ] [ Household Repairs ] [ Real Estate Professionals ]

NOTICE

These instructions are offered "As Is" and at your own risk. AtTheTipWebs.com, any of our staff members, affiliates, etc. are not responsible for any problems that may occur as a result of the use of these instructions, tips, procedures, etc., nor do we offer any support of any kind by phone, visit, or by e-mail, etc. By using these instructions, tips, procedures, etc., you accept all responsibility and liability for the results that occur.

HUD - Heads Up Display for Pontiac Grand Prix 2004 Repair Instructions

These instructions are designed to guide you through the step by step process of repairing a HUD (Heads Up Display) in a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix car. These instructions may also assist with the HUD display repair on similar cars as well, but are specific to the Grand Prix. Allow 3 hours for the repair, but it can be done in 2 hours.

The situation with the HUD in the instruction below was that the display still worked but was out of alignment due to a problem with one of the mirror alignment because a spring had pulled through a bracket. You can verify if you have the same or similar problem by looking through the windshield at the display. When you look at the display through the windshield, one the driver side of the display you can see a spring dangling loose at the bottom connection. This spring actually keeps the mirror in place for the alignment adjustment motor. When the spring comes loose the mirror drops and the image is not displayed in the right position. I believe it will make the information shine at the very top of the windshield.

So, what I did was what someone else had done. I removed the HUD, opened it up, removed the bracket, drilled a small hole near the area the bracket was broken in, put everything back together and now it works like new again.  If you do not want to repair it, you can have it replaced or replace it yourself. I believe the part is something like $385. If you hire the work out at the dealer, the labor would be about $350. So, all together it could cost between $700 and $800 to replace. If you replace it yourself it would cost you around $400. This repair cost me nothing but TIME because I had all the tools. If you do not feel comfortable doing the repair, print these instructions off and have your mechanic do it for you.

I try to detail all of the instructions I do to make them so a 10 year old could follow them. I think this process was a little harder so I would not ask anyone younger than 16 to do it. If you find them useful and they help you get your HUD back in order, please take a few minutes and express your appreciation by leaving me a TIP/DONATION in my PayPal account (any amount would be appreciated, $20 would be great).

Tools Needed:

Instructions: Please read the ENTIRE step before you perform it.

1. Park the car where it can site for a few hours, disconnect the negative battery cable. This will reduce the chances of having something short out.
   NOTE: Disconnecting the battery cable can erase information stored in the trip computer so you may want to get any information out of there that you want.
2. Remove the ring that is around the ignition key hole. You can carefully pry around it with the flat tip screw driver. It will slide out.
   
3. Remove the stereo/center control facing. It goes from the top of the dash, around the stereo & a/c controls, all the way down to the sifter area. This entire piece just pulls off. I started on the passenger side of it and pulled the clips loose until it was free from the dash.
   NOTE: It has a wire connection near the top that connects to the information display. You will have to unfasten that connection to get it totally out of the way.
   
4. Disconnect the wire from the center control facing and place it out of the way.
5. Remove the side dash panel that is between the door and the left side of the dash. It just pulls off, has 3 clips.
   
6. Un-secure the OBD-II connector. Look under the dash near the center area of the drivers side, you will see the OBD-II connector. It has a clip securing it in place. Take the clip loose and push the connector back a little so you can get the screw above it out.
   
7. Remove the knee panel (lower dash panel). Remove the 2 screws at the bottom and 1 on the left side. Once the 3 screws are out, you can pull it away from the dash. It has a few guides at the top that hold the top in place.
   
8. Remove the panel that goes around the instrument cluster. It does not have any screws holding it in place, just 3 clips at the top. I pulled at the top to get it loose, removed the wire that connected the light dimmer, then lowered the steering wheel and lifted the panel away from the dash.
   NOTE: Be careful not to break the wires that connects to the dimmer knob.
   
9. Remove the instrument cluster. It has 4 screws that hold it in place. Remove the screws, pull it a little away from the dash, un-fasten the wire connector that connects to the cluster, then lift it away from the dash.
   NOTE: Be careful not to break the wires that connect to the instrument cluster.
   
10. Remove the side windshield pillar trim pieces/covers. Pull the door seal away a little to get your finger behind the cover, then simply pull it away from the top. It has 1 clip (near the top) and a band strap (in the middle) connecting it. After you get the clip loose, pull the band fastener out of the pillar frame, then bull the cover back away from the windshield. It will come out pretty easy.
    
11. Remove the most forward part of the dash, the piece that covers the HUD and goes all the way across the dash at it's most forward edge. This is the hardest part of the entire process. It has several clips that go across and the rear edge of it (the edge closet to you) is kind of sharp. I actually used some leather gloves to protect my hands. NOTE: Be careful not to break the wires that connect to the alarm indicator and light sensor. Working from one side to the other, lift the trip/dash piece up to the windshield to free the clips. Once the clips are free, un-fasten the wire that connects to the alarm indicator, it turns 1/4 turn and will come out pretty easy. The light sensor will also come out with 1/4 turn, if not un-fasten the wires that connect to the light sensor. There is a clip on the back side of it that needs to be released to get the wires un-plugged (I actually could not un-plug the wire and ended up pulling the sensor apart. It went back together when I put everything back but it was a pain). Once you have those 2 wires loose, lift the panel out of the car. You will have to pull on it a little because it has a good rubber gasket/seal on the forward edge of it to stop things from going behind your dash.
    
12. Remove the HUD. The HUD is held in place by 1 screw, 2 bolts and the electrical connector. Remove the bolts on either side of the HUD, remove the screw from the area behind the instrument panel, un-fasten the wire connectors on the side (passenger side of the HUD), then lift the HUD out of the dash. I had to slide it out towards the passenger side. Once out, I took it to my work bench (kitchen counter top :-).
    
13. Take the HUD apart. It has 5 Phillip screws holding it together.
    NOTE: Once inside, try not to get your finger prints on the inside glass or mirrors.
    
14. Remove the light or sensor that connects the top to the bottom. Do not want to break any wires while it is apart.
15. Remove the forward mirror. The one that tilts and has the broken spring connected to the left side of it. I think there is a screw on the right side, once I remove the screw I lifted the right edge out then the left. NOTE: Watch how this is in because if you do not put it back right your display will not work properly.
    
16. Remove the left side bracket. You will need to remove the bracket to drill the hole in it. You have to remove the 2 screws that hold the motor in place to get the bracket out.
    
17. Drill a hole in the bracket. I drilled the hole just right of where the spring pulled through the plastic (see photo). I guess someone could use epoxy of something to fix the split but why chance it.
    
18. Install the spring. You can do it now or after you put the mirror back in.
19. Install the bracket and secure the adjustment motor back in place.
20. Install the mirror. You can install the spring now if you have not already done so. If you dirtied the mirror, use a lint free cloth to clean it. I use eyeglass cleaner stuff to clean it (spray & cloth).
    

NOTE: Put everything back together in the reverse order. You should clean/dust everything as you put it back together. Cars can look like new when you clean & dust things that you normally can not reach when it is together.

Remember to leave me a tip for these instructions (see below). (If you decide to run around town fixing these as a side business, please remember to send me a kick back :-))

These instructions were modified on 08/02/2010.

I hope these instructions were helpful to you. Please take a minute and leave me a donation, yes I do need it. Click Here.